December 5, 2020
Dear Ken: Can you give me a few tips on how to keep my granite tops in good condition and nice and shiny? Danielle
The word “granite” implies a strong, indestructible material, but in household use, it is not an impregnable material. It has a medium porosity rating, and so can soak up stains. Common enemies of granite countertops include ink, cosmetics, peanut butter, tea and coffee, strawberries, lemons and oily compounds of all kinds. It’s vital to wipe up these materials right away, so they don’t soak in. Granite can water stain, too, so use coasters. And, as with any countertop, set hot pans and dishes on a trivet and not right on the top. Ordinary care includes wiping with a warm water solution of a mild dishwashing liquid or a vegetable product, like Murphy’s Oil Soap. Rinse and then polish with a soft cloth or chamois.
If you set a stain into your granite, it can be reabsorbed by applying a poultice for several hours. For ordinary food stains, try mixing a cup of flour with a few tablespoons of dishwashing liquid. Apply the goo directly to the stain, cover with plastic wrap, and let it sit overnight. For oily marks, you can use hydrogen peroxide instead of the detergent. For marker and ink stains, try acetone—nail polish remover—or lacquer thinner.
It’s a good idea to seal granite from time to time. So, visit a tile store for a product they recommend, and also for more tips on cleaning and maintaining your tops. And remember, granite is a natural, vulnerable material and so can benefit from lots more TLC than you’re used to with manmade products you may have had in the past.
Dear Ken: I have an older home, and the tub won’t drain on the coldest mornings. Could it be freezing? Mary
Maybe so. Older homes don’t have the insulation we now require, and so pipes in hidden spaces--especially on the north side--can freeze, and sometimes burst.
I most often hear about this vexing problem when it affects exterior hose faucets. If a hose is left on, for example, the pipe that feeds it can freeze and burst. In any event, the fix is the same--whether for drain pipes like yours or for copper water piping--since these almost always occur inside a finished ceiling cavity below the plumbing fixture in question.
Measure the location precisely and then cut a 4” x 6” hole in that ceiling directly below the drain or pipe. That will allow just enough warm room air to waft up into the space, preventing the freeze-up you complain of. Cover the hole with a white metal grill—the kind meant for return air ducts and other heating vents.
This the reason why I recommend that when you’re away from the house for extended periods in the winter, you open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls. Those dead air spaces can become extremely cold on frigid, windy over-nights, and so can play havoc with those same pipes.
Dear Ken: I have an older house with a gas log inside the wood burning fireplace. A lot of cold air runs down the flue. Could I install a partial cap—like a plate with holes—on top to slow down the wind? Ron
You should leave the flue and chimney as-is. But what about glass doors? In most places they are required in a situation like yours, because the damper is never supposed to be totally closed. There should be a small clamp or screw on the damper plate itself that keeps it from shutting all the way, and so ensures that the fumes from the pilot light can always escape, regardless of the position of the lever. Shine a flashlight upward from the firebox and take a look to make sure you have one. If not, consider this a high priority safety item that should be remedied ASAP.
Glass doors are relatively cheap—say $250 or so--and easy as pie to install. They simply clamp in place with set screws, and that will keep out the draft you complain about.
PS: Don’t forget to open that damper all the way before you fire up the gas log, otherwise you risk dangerous fume retention in the house.
Dear Ken: How do I remove carpet tape residue from my oak floor? Sherrie
I like a product called Goo Gone (not to be confused with the similarly-named Goof Off). It’s a lemony-smelling liquid that works pretty well on sticky spots. Try some in an out-of-the-way location first, so you know it won’t affect the glossy finish of the floor.
Dear Ken: Our first showers in the morning are lukewarm, then hot. This repeats itself again in the evening. Any ideas? Jack
You must have an older water heater. Many water heaters manufactured in the mid 90’s had defective plastic tubes on the inside. We inject the incoming cold water into the bottom of the tank through this tube that’s, maybe, three feet long or so. That insures that the hot war rises to the top to be drawn off into your shower—and that the cooler water is nearer the burner. If that tube falls apart, then the whole scheme is kaput. I’ll bet that’s the case with you. One way to confirm this is to look in the aerator screens of your faucets for tiny shards of white or blue plastic. If present, they confirm a bad dip tube. Rather than have a plumber replace the tube, why not change the water heater itself? If it is indeed over 20 years old, it’s way past time for a new, more efficient model.
