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February 13, 2021

Dear Ken: We had a carbon monoxide leak newer furnace. The detector didn’t alarm, but our old windows leaked so much air that we are OK. I checked the fine print and the manufacturer says you should replace them every 5 years or so. Ours was older. Can you help me spread the word? Kathy

 

Absolutely. The sensors inside carbon monoxide detectors have a fixed life that’s a lot shorter than smoke detectors. Electrochemical types (the kind most of us have) should be replaced every 5 to 7 years. They all have a date stamped on the back you can use as a reference. Plus most detectors now come with a built-in calendar. When the computer counts down to the time limit set by the manufacturer, the unit starts to squawk, reminding you it's time for a replacement.

 

My favorite detector is the Nighthawk plug-in style. Look for the combination CO and combustible gas detector; it not only alarms for carbon monoxide, but also senses natural gas and propane leaks. It has a battery backup, digital display and keeps track of prior readings.

 

By the way, I’m glad you’re OK. You were lucky.

 

Dear Ken: I used D-Con in my dirt-floor basement. Now I have some carcasses to dispose of. Do I need to worry about getting sick if I handle them? Larry

 

Hantavirus pulmonary syndrome can be contracted by inhaling the virus--if it’s present--in the feces or urine of infected mice. Some strains can be fatal, but thankfully, it’s extremely rare. Use common sense when handling your dead mice. Wet down the area with a mixture of Clorox and water, wear rubber gloves and a mask and seal all the remains in plastic bags before disposing of them. This web site will tell you all you need to know (and more): cdc.gov/hantavirus

 

 Many folks have crawl spaces which they must enter when changing the furnace filter. A mask and gloves are important attire when performing this chore, even if you don’t see any mice.

 

Dear Ken: I have a ceiling fan with a light attached and a remote control. It goes on and off at totally random times. My husband thinks we have a ghost. How about you? Sallie

 

I think it’s much less spooky than that. Interference from other electronic sources—like garage door operators, ham radios, public service transmitters and maybe a neighbor with a similar fan—can trigger yours. Does your fan setup have DIP switches? These are tiny toggles inside the remote and the fan receiver that are configured to establish compatibility between the two devices. Choose other combinations of settings until you find one that behaves properly. 

 

Also, check the grounding of this circuit. You should have a continuous ground wire path through the wall switch and all the way to the metal body of the fan itself. If not, stray static charges could also make the fan unpredictable. An electrician can perform the tests to determine the status of the grounding connections.

 

Dear Ken: I removed some old paneling, and now the glue won’t go away. We’ve used KILZ, but the old glue stripes keep showing through. Help! Eileen

 

Did you use the water- or oil-based KILZ primer?  The original (oil) product is a better choice for covering difficult imperfections, like your old glue. If the old blemishes still show through after using it, you’ll need to remove them by brute force. Wet the lines down with a little warm water from a spray bottle, then try to ease them off with a razor blade scraper.

 

Trouble is, you’ll probably end up scratching the drywall paper surface, which creates another problem. The wall will then need re-texturing before you paint. That’s why I almost always recommend wallpaper over these old previously-paneled surfaces.  Choose a muted texture which blends into the background. It will cover a lot of “sins” and is the least frustrating way to finish your project.

 

Dear Ken: My daughter has bought a new home in in the foothills with a really high radon reading (way above 4.0). If it is brought down, will they still be in jeopardy from other houses in the neighborhood? Carrie

 

Probably not. We worry about the radon level inside houses—not outdoors. When the house is repaired to mitigate the radon exposure level, air will be pulled from under the basement floor, sent through a tube, and then exhausted from a vent high up in the eaves. That way, the prevailing breeze disperses and dilutes it. 

 

The mitigation company will guarantee to get it down below the recommended 4.0 max. Also, keep in mind that the standard is somewhat arbitrary; it was set by the government in the early 80’s, since that was the lowest level they could measure at the time. Nevertheless, it has become ingrained into the real estate sale process, and so must be addressed if it’s higher. Check out www.epa.gov/radon for more information.

    

Dear Ken: My patio has settled and now water runs towards the house instead of away. If I were to mud jack it, wouldn’t it affect my foundation? Van

 

The reason it sank in the first place was because it wasn’t tied to the house. Usually, we leave pieces of steel (rebar) bent out from the foundation to tie into the patio structure. That provides an anchor if the dirt settles underneath; that’s not the case at your house. So, no problem--mudjacking will raise the patio back to its original spot with no structural effects.  

 

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