February 6, 2021
Dear Ken: I want new windows, but it’s so confusing. I have a wide range of bids with all sorts of bells and whistles. Can you help me sort through this? Gene
It sounds like you’re in “apples and watermelons” mode; it’s hard to compare dissimilar proposals, isn’t it? So, I recommend that with each vendor, you specify a set of good, basic vinyl windows with low-e glass only. Avoid expensive add-ons, like argon gas and triple panes. And be sure to get three estimates.
A good rule of thumb that most commercial contractors use is to be skeptical of a really high or amazingly low bid. They’ve figured the estimate wrong, are making excessive profit or want to “bait and switch” you. The best experiences usually lie somewhere in the lower-middle of the bid range. When you narrow it down, ask the company for the phone numbers of the last two window jobs they did; homeowners just like you are the best references of all!
Dear Ken: Our glasses aren’t coming out totally clean, and the dishwasher is a newer model. Any ideas? Michelle
First, make sure the spray arms are rotating. Set the timer on a wash cycle, then quickly open the door to see if the arms are moving. Next, check your water temperature. The manufacturers say 120 degrees, minimum, but I think 130 or even 140 is better. Remember that those levels introduce a scalding hazard for the young, disabled and infirm, so be careful.
Are you using enough detergent? Check your water for the grains of hardness, especially if you are on a well or small community system. If it’s hard (seven grains or more), you will need to contact one of the detergent companies for additional recommendations. Otherwise, I find that the little dissolvable pods add just the right amount of soap and rinse aid chemicals.
Dear Ken: I think we have moisture issues. The instrument we have says 50% to 60% humidity. That can’t be right so how do we measure it? — Ed
Hygrometers need calibration at least once a year. If you have an analog (dial) model, set it outdoors for at least 2 hours to stabilize, then check one of the TV station weather pages, weather.com or the NOAA forecast site for the current relative humidity. Adjust the calibration screw to that setting. Do this for two or three straight days, and you’ll be able to zero in on a close calibration. That should help determine your indoor humidity level.
A digital model is more complicated. Wrap it in a very damp cloth and place it inside a sealed bag. After a few hours, it should read about 95%. If not, note the difference so you can apply that adjustment to any regular reading.
By the way, many poorly ventilated homes in this region can have high levels of indoor moisture, which needs to be lowered as soon as possible so mold issues don’t develop.
Inadequately ventilated crawl spaces and attics are the primary culprits, as well as poor wall insulation, the misuse (or non-use) of bath fans and whole house humidifiers set too high.
Dear Ken: I am putting my house on the market. My real estate agent noticed hairline cracks in the stucco and wants it checked out with a moisture meter. Do you agree? Brittany
No. Minor hairline cracks in stucco are perfectly normal. They are usually caused by thermal expansion and contraction from season to season, or by minor movements of the studs inside the walls. Stucco is very permeable and so will have absorbed water from the last snow storm; the moisture meter may pick that up and indicate there’s a problem when there really isn’t one.
So, unless you know of other more serious troubles—like mold on the inside walls, chunks of stucco sloughing off or other indicators of a more serious nature, simply ignore the cracks.
Dear Ken: My house has these two pipes in the furnace room. They come from the north side of the house, and pull in a lot of cold air and moisture. Can they be modified? Danny
Probably so. Those ducts let fresh air into the utility room to satisfy the furnace’s and water heater’s needs for oxygen. Trouble is, they also let in more cold air than you want—and sometimes fill up with wind-driven snow. The rules for this fresh air intake have changed since your home was built. So, I’ll bet that with a little modification--perhaps a louvered door and some grilles in the walls--you could draw most--if not all-- of this air from the inside spaces.
Homes leak more air that we used to think, so, if there is enough “communication” between the interior air volume and the furnace room, we can usually make it work. Then you can block up the two cold ducts. The configurations allowable by the mechanical code are pretty arcane, so you’ll need your HVAC to help figure all this out. Please, don’t do this on your own, as a misstep can put the family in jeopardy.
Dear Ken: I want to paint my patio. How can I prepare it so the paint sticks? Chris
A simple power washing will normally remove the accumulated crud on the surface and also etch the concrete surface slightly, so the new material will bond better. You mention paint, and there are certainly deck paints you could choose. But these normally do better on interior concrete. Why not choose a water-based concrete stain? They come in many colors, are incredibly easy to apply and also renew when you need to, and will probably do better than paint. Why? A solid paint surface can allow moisture to become trapped between it and the concrete, and that usually leads to sloughing off of the painted surface itself.
