August 15, 2020
Dear Ken: We installed a new 3 ton A/C in June. We have a 1600 SF ranch home, but the system doesn’t always keep up. Do you think it’s big enough? Liz
I think so. But there are a few tricks you can try to get ahead of the heat on the warmest days:
- Set your programmable thermostat to drop to the “cool” setting earlier in the afternoon, say about 2:30. That will have the house cooling down as the heat load increases.
- Before you leave in the morning, close the blinds or drapes on the southerly-exposed windows.
- When you get home, turn the AUTO/ON switch on the thermostat to ON. This is particularly important in a rancher, because that will pull cooler basement air into the system and so moderate the temperature on the main level.
Do you know anything about your attic’s condition? Set a remote-reading thermometer in the attic space, and if it reads 120 º or more in the afternoon, you’ve got work to do. You should have 13”+ of blown insulation up there (about R-40), plus you may need some extra vents to exhaust the sun’s daily build-up.
One other very effective add-on is a thermostatically controlled vent fan. It installs on the attic sidewall over a gable vent, and pulls cooler outside air through the space.
Dear Ken: We are finishing our basement and have been told by the code people to use "floating walls". Can you tell me about them? Frank
The soil in many areas around here contains varying amounts of clay (it tends to be worse nearer the foothills). This clay can expand with amazing force when it gets wet from drainage water; and that force can push up on the parts of your house which touch the ground, causing the concrete floors in the basement to buckle and crack. The last thing you want is for this heaving to be transferred to the structure above---which is exactly what would happen if those new basement walls of yours touched the concrete.
So engineers and builders have created a rather clever way to protect the structural integrity of the rooms above the basement: they sort of suspend the new basement walls from the ceiling and attach them to the concrete floor with two flat 2"x4"'s spaced about an inch and a half apart. The bottom board---the one resting on the floor---is connected to the rest of the wall only with huge nailing spikes. So it can move up and down (float) with the floor, but the wall stays put! There's a little more detail involving sheet rock and baseboard connections, so consult with a contractor or trim carpenter.
But the point is, no matter where you live---even if you've been told that the soil is OK---include “floating walls” in your basement finish design anyway. Your house will thank you for it!
Dear Readers: Small blemishes in carpet---say, pet stains or burn marks---can be handled in a couple of different ways. If there's a closet you can "steal" from or there are leftover scraps, then of course you can have a carpet installer fill in the area with a patch. It may not exactly match the high traffic and sun-exposed area you’re repairing, but the new piece will blend in within a few weeks.
For small spots that don't go very deep into the fabric, take a pair of manicure scissors and a magnifying glass, and carefully give the area a haircut. Usually it'll be barely noticeable.
Dear Ken: We want to get a humidifier this year for the furnace. What kind should we buy? Mike
Modern whole house humidifiers work pretty well. Unlike the old water bath type which accumulated algae and got dirty very quickly, the new styles are self-cleaning and have no moving parts. I like the Aprilaire brand, but there are others similar in style: a hot water stream dribbles over a mesh screen and we draw warm furnace air through it, which adds humidity.
The only drawback is that they operate only when the furnace fan is running. That means you have to turn the thermostat fan switch to the “always on” setting. Alternatively, you can install one of the new automatic models, which actually take control of the furnace fan circuit when the humidity gets below your setting (I like to keep mine at about 40%). Expect to pay an installed price of around $500.
Dear Ken: Dust blows into our bath fan. What should we do? Alan
Check the outlet of the fan. There should be a little flapper over the 3 inch hole, which stays shut except when the fan is running. Sometimes--especially on the metal versions of these caps--the flapper won't close properly because the assembly is under stress. If so, replace it with a plastic version.
Dear Ken: There are rust spots around the drain in my lavatory. Can I cover them myself? Rick
Usually the cheaper steel sinks will slough off there porcelain coating after they're "bruised" by dropped curling irons or the errant hair dryer. You can buy touch-up porcelain repair "paint" at the hardware store. Scuff up the area with a little fine sandpaper and apply the material very sparingly. Unfortunately it's only a temporary repair. Eventually you'll want to replace the sink with an all-porcelain version---about $40 more than the steel one you've got now.
