Button Up Sprinkler
Dear Readers: It’s time to start thinking about mothballing the sprinkler system for another season. So is it really necessary to blow it out with compressed air? I don't recommend it. Why? It's vital during dry winters to water the lawn, bushes and young trees once every three or four weeks. To avoid dragging stiff and frozen hoses all over the yard trying to water with a portable sprinkler, I like to fire up my system on those warm winter days we enjoy here in the Rockies. Modern systems, with the zone pipes configured out of that black shiny polyethylene piping, usually don't need purging with air. This material is pretty flexible and can usually withstand freezing. Moreover, once the system has been idle for a few days the pipes are only partially full of water anyway. (Older systems with hard pipes--like white PVC or galvanized steel--are another matter; these should be blown out, since they are lot more vulnerable to cold temperatures).
The manifold part of your sprinkler set-up, however, is a different story. This is the arrangement of pipes on the outside wall--plus the plastic valves in that green box next to the house--which distribute the water into the network of zones. You need to drain this end of the system each time you winterize. There should be a little faucet in the box which will let little water dribble out. A corresponding drain in the utility room will let atmospheric pressure into the line to ensure the water leaves from that end, too.
And don't forget the final step. Turn on the sprinkler clock and switch on each zone valve manually for a few seconds. That will allow some air into the pipes so they can trickle a little water into the soil through the heads and any underground drains. Once that's done, turn the clock to the RAIN/OFF position.
It only takes me only about two minutes to un-winterize and then re-drain my system after watering. If your winterization procedure is more complex and inconvenient than that, you might want to hire a plumber or landscaping contractor to do some re-piping.
This is also a great time for a final lawn treatment. Perform the fall aeration followed by your final application of fertilizer. Some companies make fertilizers specifically for winterizing. I just use a good all-purpose product with iron as a final snack for the lawn before it goes to sleep.
Dear Ken: How much insulation should we have in the attic this winter? Jeri
The recommendation for the Rocky Mountain region is 14 to 15 inches, or R-48 to 50. Insulation is so cost effective—producing the most savings for the least money—that it pays for itself in just a couple of years. Plus, since there are multiple rebates from all levels of government and many utility providers, it makes sense to do it right now.
And please don’t let anyone talk you into removing what you already have, even though there might be heavy metals present—like in the old Rockwool martial—or perhaps even asbestos. Regardless, removing it will cause a whole new set of problems, including contamination of the living space. Just add a new layer of fiberglass or cellulose insulation on top of whatever combination of materials you have to get you to the recommended depth.
Dear Ken: I have a kitchen/family room that only has two small windows, so it’s quite dark. What do you think of those tubes that let light in? Barb
I like the idea. There are several brands of these tubular skylights you can install for a fraction of what a regular skylight would cost. They slip in through a hole in the roof, down into the attic and terminate on the ceiling with a diffuser lens. The tube is lined with a high-tech reflective material that is extremely effective in capturing sunlight and bouncing it down the tube. It’s so bright—even on cloudy days—that it will remind you of a powerful halogen bulb light fixture, but with zero operating costs. Also, you can add an optional light kit above the diffuser which will simulate daylight after the sun goes down.
They are fairly pricey, so shop around and ask whichever company you choose to give you some past customer referrals, whom you can check in with.
Dear Ken: I have a single lever shower and tub faucet. Lately it makes strange noises and the hot water surges and then almost stops. What’s going on? Gina
It sounds like the faucet needs rebuilding. Depending on the brand, you can buy a kit full of replacement parts—springs, washers and screws—that are fairly easy to install. Shut off the water, remove the plastic handle and unscrew the chrome sleeve which holds the whole thing together. Follow the directions and you’ll have, essentially, a brand new faucet.
Some brands—like Moen—are even easier to work with. You simply remove a central cartridge, which contains all the afore-mentioned parts inside; slide in a new one, and you’re back in business.
Dear Ken: I’ve got a colored and patterned concrete patio that I spilled fertilizer on. How should I get it off without problems? Ronnie
Ordinarily l would recommend a remover chemical, like CLR or one of the concrete rust removing products powders you can get at the hardware store—perhaps combined with power washing. But in your case, I’m concerned that they might remove the decorative finish on your patio. Instead, let’s wait for our strong UV sunlight to cook it away. It may take a month or more, but be patient.
