CO Detectors
Dear Ken: You recommended a certain type of carbon monoxide detector on your show a couple of weeks ago. Which one was that? Keith
I prefer the plug-in style of CO detector for several reasons. It sits at roughly the same level as your head while you’re sleeping—the time when you’re most vulnerable to this insidious gas. Even though carbon monoxide is a little lighter than air, it tends to accumulate near the floor first as the hot air from the furnace scoots across the floor on its way to a cold air return.
I like the Nighthawk brand because it contains a historical record of prior CO exposures, and it’s easy to self-test.
Dear Ken: Should I cover my outside air conditioner unit in the winter? Jerilyn
I like the idea because it's so easy and inexpensive. Of course, these condensing units are coated with weatherproof enamel paint and have self-draining holes to get rid of melting snow and rain, but they will look prettier longer and probably last a few more years in service if they are protected from harsh winter conditions. You can buy an inexpensive plastic cover, complete with a rubber strap, for less than $15 at a discount store. I use conventional bungee cords to secure my cover, as they create a more snug fit around the bottom. If you have an odd size not readily available at the home center, check out accovers.com for custom sizes. Turn up the cover and inch or so at the bottom to let moisture escape and to discourage nesting mice.
Finally, go to your electric panel and turn off the breaker to prevent any accidental energizing of the condensing unit.
Dear Ken: We are in a new home in a windy area. We feel drafts along the baseboards and through the plugs. Can we add more wall insulation? Jonathan
Probably not. The walls of new homes are chock full of batt insulation, so there’s really not room for more. Check the outside—specifically where the siding hangs down over the foundation walls. You may need to fill the gaps with some expanding insulating foam. Let it swell overnight, then trim the edges. Alternatively, you could squirt in some caulking or stuff in chunks of fiberglass.
Remove the outlet covers and probe around the boxes with an old kitchen knife. If all you hear is the crinkle of paper insulation—not the crunch of builder-installed Styrofoam—then it can helpful to inject the foam in there, too. Not too much, though; if you overdue it, you could put strain on the back of the electrical boxes as it expands. Also, apply some of those insulating pads behind the switch and outlet plates.
In a windy area, window coverings are doubly important. Choose cellular shades or insulated drapes, for example. You could also install some interior storm windows.
Dear Ken: I have an AprilAire brand humidifier on the furnace. Could I have some tips about getting it going this winter? Barry
This is the most common style of humidifier in which warm water trickles over a honeycomb screen while air from the furnace blower flows through and evaporates it. Remove the cover and check the screen. Chances are it will be coated with dried minerals from the evaporating water. Screens for this brand are relatively inexpensive—around $10 each in 2-packs—so it’s advisable to replace it each fall. There will also undoubtedly be dried scale around the interior frame of the unit itself which can be scrubbed with an old toothbrush. If your water supply is particularly mineralized, then around midwinter soak the screen in pure white vinegar for a while to dislodge the inevitable buildup.
Is your humidifier fed from the hot or cold side of the plumbing system? Hot is preferred because the water evaporates more readily. It’s easy to switch if you need to. Buy a new saddle valve and screw it on to the correct pipe; piece of cake.
Set the humidistat to about 40% when the temperature outside is moderate. It will have to be lowered as the winter sets in, because cold air holds less moisture than warm. Otherwise you’ll get sweating around the windows and sills. For reference, there should be a chart next to the little dial indicating humidity settings vs. outside temperature.
If you have central air conditioning, there may be a “summer/winter” damper lever inside that fat tube leaving the humidifier enclosure. Open it now to let air circulate through there and pick up water vapor. In the spring, simply turn the humidistat dial to OFF and close that same damper so the air conditioning works properly (if you forget to shut it, the coils may freeze up).
Finally, remember that the humidifier only runs when the furnace fan is spinning, so to maximize the moisture level, run the fan 24/7 if you need to.
Dear Ken: Do you know of a product I can use to remove grease from an old stove and hood? Anna
If the conventional grocery store-type products aren’t getting the job done, try some ammonia and hot water, diluted half and half plus a few drops of dishwashing liquid thrown in as a wetting agent. If that doesn’t get it done, try mineral spirits—what we used to call paint thinner. Today’s version is low odor, but take frequent breaks and ventilate anyway. Also, remember that it’s flammable, so be careful.
