December 12, 2020
Dear Ken: Do you like those little deflectors that stick on to the heat vents with magnets? Danny
In a word, no. The reason we put heat vents along the outside walls—especially under windows and doors—is to wash warm air over those coldest surfaces. The plastic deflectors you ask about will nullify that design. It’s a perception thing, too; the center of the room may be at, say, 70º, but the diversion of the heat flow will mean that the edges of the room will be considerably cooler. That makes you less comfortable, so you’re apt to turn up the thermostat--and that raises your utility bill.
As long as we’re talking about wintertime comfort, another idea involves ceiling fans. In the winter, reverse the fan so it blows UPWARD and run it on low; that will wash warmish ceiling air over those same cold exterior surfaces.
Dear Ken: How low should we set the thermostat while we’re traveling away from home? Gayle
Never less than 55º. That’s because we don’t want to risk freezing pipes in hidden cavities in the outside walls. While the thermostat itself might be at a given setting, the exterior walls—especially northern exposures—will be considerably colder.
If a neighbor is going to come in and water house plants and flush the toilets, then leave the water on. Otherwise it’s a good idea to turn off the main water supply valve in the utility room. That way, if there is a freeze-up, there will be little, if any, pressure in the lines, which could cause a flood. If you do shut that main valve, turn the water heater totally off, including the pilot light.
Dear Ken: I want to remove my popcorn ceilings, but there’s a problem. I’ve had them tested, and they contain asbestos. What can I do? Fran
I would leave them alone--for two reasons. First, you may not like the results once you expose the ceiling underneath your acoustic ceiling. That’s because drywall finishers would often skip the final floating coat of “mud”, knowing that it would be hidden by the popcorn layer. So, if you were to remove it, you might have to float the seams and re-texture anyway.
Second, the asbestos. This binder was in many drywall products until the late 70’s. Health regulations require you to hire a special team of removers, certified to handle it and keep it out of the rest of the house. This is an expensive and tedious process.
Also, many experts say that no matter how many precautions you take, removing it can release particles into the air that can migrate into the drapes, heating system and carpet.
Bottom line? Keep the ceiling well-sealed with a generous a layer of sprayed-on, semi-gloss latex paint, and you’ll be fine.
Dear Ken: I’ve heard you say to drain the water heater once in a while. How often? And does it help with its operation? Ethan
It does help to drain accumulated sediment from the bottom of the tank occasionally. That layer inhibits the heat transfer from the flame to the water itself, and so lowers the efficiency of the system. Whether this is a big deal or not at your house depends on the water supply quality. You can check by looking at the bottom of a toilet tank. If there is little or no foreign material, like sediment of grit, then draining the water heater is probably not a big deal (this is usually the case for us city slickers).
But private well water users or those on small, community systems usually have to contend with more sand and other sedimentary materials, so if you’re in the country, drain the tank at least once a year. Here’s how: Turn the gas off to the tank—pilot included—before you take your showers on some weekend morning. That will use up expensively heated water just before you drain the water heater. Turn off the cold water valve to the tank, attach a hose to that little faucet on the bottom and drain all you can. Then turn the incoming cold water valve on-off-on-off to roil up the material on the bottom. When the water runs clear, you’re done. Close the faucet and relight the pilot and burner.
Dear Ken: I have an older house with a concrete sidewalk, and there’s a 1-inch gap between it and the house. What can I do? I think it’s too wide to caulk. Matt
You could tap a long redwood strip of just the right thickness into the gap, and then seal the edges of the board with the same stuff I recommended above. Like all wood, redwood comes in standard widths. So you might have to find someone with a good-sized table saw to “rip” or plane the board to the width of your crack.
Another idea is to add a caulking strip. One brand is Slab Gasket (slabgasket.com). It’s an extruded vinyl material that comes in several standard widths and heights. You simply unroll it and jamb it into the crack, where it becomes a more or less permanent barrier to surface water.
Dear Ken: How can I clean 20 year old stained wood cabinets to make them look newer? Anne
The edges where people grab doors or drawers to open them usually need the most attention. Remove the pulls first, then you can use that goopy mechanic’s hand cleaner, white vinegar full strength or even mineral spirits to remove that oily residue. The rest is easy. Rejuvenate Cabinet Restorer (available online), Scotts Liquid Gold or Olde English will season the wood and add a pleasant luster to your old cabinets. This would also be a good time to consider adding modern and sparkly hardware—pulls, knobs and hinges—to update your kitchen décor.
