May 18, 2019
Dear Ken: My smoke detector has started to go off when someone takes a shower. It's wired into the electrical system. Should I replace it? Stu
The water vapor combined with dust may be fooling the detector into thinking it senses "smoke". Older detectors do accumulate cobwebs and dirt inside; it sometimes helps to remove the cover and blow some canned air in and around the innards of the unit. But considering that you can get a new one for less than $30, I'd replace it. The newer dual-type detectors are the best choice. They combine the traditional ionization technology with a photocell to detect smoldering, smoky fires.
Dear Readers:
I’ve been asked to repeat my “how to drain the water heater" sequence. It's an often-overlooked chore that usually pays dividends in lower energy costs and more efficient water heating. Over the months, a layer of accumulated sand, grit and scale can form on the bottom of the tank. That sediment acts as an insulator to the heat from below so, roughly once a year, we need to get rid of it.
If your water is well-filtered and residue-free, then this procedure is optional. The biggest benefits come for folks on a well or small community water system, where sediment is more common. How can you tell? Lift off the tank cover on one of your toilets. If you see sandy or gritty deposits on the bottom of the tank, then draining the water heater is a good idea.
Star by turning the gas control to PILOT, which prevents the burner from coming on during this operation. Then, identify the cold water inlet pipe to the tank and turn its valve off. Attach a garden hose to the spigot at the bottom of the tank and run the end of the hose into a floor drain. Open a hot water faucet at the highest level of the house then the spigot and let the hot water drain from the tank. Now the secret: using that cold water valve, blast spurts of cold water on, off, on, off into the tank. That should loosen up that sediment and run it down the drain. When the effluent runs clear, shut off the drain, and let the tank fill with new cold water.
By the way, there is little benefit in draining an electric water heater, since the actual heating takes place higher up in the tank.
Dear Ken: I need new windows in my 26 year old house. My question is, will vinyl windows withstand the sun at my house which is at 7000 feet? My redwood siding has taken a beating and I don't want that to happen to my new windows. William
The chemistry of the PVC (plastic by any other name) in vinyl windows has gotten pretty good. They've designed out the reactivity to sunlight that used to plague the old formulations. But stick with the white frames because they reflect a more sun than the colored versions.
Low-e glass is also a good option for you to choose. It will save you, maybe, 20 to 30% in energy costs and cut down the glare from outside. You also may be offered a choice of argon or krypton gas between the panes instead of plain, desiccated (extra dry) air. This option is probably not worth the extra cost vs. what you save—plus the gas can leak out at our higher elevations.
Dear Ken: I recently purchased an older home. There is about 2 feet of concrete from the ground up to the bottom of the siding. The previous owners painted the concrete with latex which is now flaking off. What can I use to get this off and what should I put back on? Colette
This sounds like an ideal job for a power washer. You can rent one at the neighborhood tool rental place for a couple of hours and use it to blast off the remaining paint. Once that's done, you can apply one of the new latex (water based) concrete stains in any color you choose like gray, brown or red.
Dear Ken: We have wood-framed windows. Several of them have been trapping moisture. Could you please repeat your advice about how to fix them. We can't afford replacement. Beth
The first thing to realize is that the energy efficiency of the windows is barely affected. It's that air gap between the panes which insulates them, and whether there's the factory super-dry air inside or some ambient water vapor is barely relevant. Other than simply replacing the units, there's one fix (which I've personally never tried) that was given to me on my radio show.
You might try it on one window as an experiment. Using a carbide-tipped bit, drill a 1/8 inch hole in both a top and (opposite) bottom corner of the inside pane only. The theory is that it’s supposed to provide an escape route for the trapped moisture. However, this mustn't be attempted on tempered glass, as it will shatter. Look for a small, etched emblem somewhere near the edge of the pane which would indicate tempering.
