October 17, 2020

     Dear Ken: We want to install our own ceiling fan. How do we proceed? Jim

     If there is an existing light fixture at the spot you want the fan, you’re in luck.  Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an electrician to fish a wire through the attic first. That can be problematic—especially if you have a cathedral ceiling.

     If you do have an electrical opening there, you’ll need to replace or at least beef up the box first. If it is next to a wood truss member, you should remove it and install a special box designed just for ceiling fans.

     If the electrical box is plastic or—whatever its type--is half way between two trusses, you’ll need to install a reinforced fan support kit. This a clever gizmo with a metal mounting box between two expanding “wings” that literally bite into the adjacent wood members. These approaches will require a bigger hole than you’ll have there now, but not to worry; you can buy a decorative plastic (paintable) escutcheon in whatever diameter you need to cover it. 

     Dear Ken: I want a prettier front door. Ours is one of those fiberglass units, and it has a yellowish peeling surface that drives me nuts. How can I refinish it for good? Steve

     The builder probably applied a coat of varnish when the house was built.  Even so-called exterior grades of this product yellow and deteriorate over time. The strong UV sunlight at this elevation eventually breaks down clear finishes—whether on a door, a deck or a fence.

     You’ll be much happier if you were to paint your front door. Remove the old finish by lightly scuffing with sand paper. Then apply a water based exterior grade primer; two coats is best. Then you can brush on a bright accent color that will highlight and focus attention on your front entrance. The beauty of this is that you can touch up and renew the surface anytime you like.

     Dear Ken: I’m going to build a new deck. Should I use treated lumber underneath for the joists even though it’s eight feet off the ground? John

     Even though there’s no risk of damage from wet soil, I like the idea of chemically treated lumber anyway. It will help protect the vulnerable underside of the deck from deterioration caused by inevitable moisture infiltration, which accumulates after each storm. Strips of tarpaper on top of each new joist will also help will forestall this effect.

     Dear Ken: A number of us in the neighborhood have asphalt driveways. Some seal theirs occasionally. Is that really necessary? Gary

     It’s a good idea to apply a water-based, emulsified sealant every couple of years.  Why? Because, as with concrete, asphalt has small pores which can accumulate melting snow and ice.  When the driveway goes through the frequent freeze thaw cycles we have here—warmish days and cold nights—tiny ice crystals form, which can lead to premature deterioration of the driveway. The sealant helps keep the water on the surface and so can marginally lengthen the useful life of the asphalt.

      Dear Ken: We have a toilet on a new tile floor that seems loose. The floor guy was going to try to caulk it to stop it from moving. Is that OK? Noreen

      It probably needs to be shimmed. A plumbing supply vendor or even a tile store can provide small plastic shims to ease up and secure the low edge of the toilet. Then you can caulk for both looks and a little more stability. Caulking is OK on the front and sides of the toilet base, but leave the back open so leaks will show up on the floor before they cause any permanent damage.

     Dear Ken: I want to paint our fence. I don’t necessarily want the cedar look, more of a white-washed finish. Stan

     Once you start, you’ll have to revive the finish annually because of the wear and tear on the fence’s surface from the sun, rain, snow, and sprinkler heads. Have a paint store mix up a semi-transparent pigmented stain for you. An oil based formulation would be the more hardy finish, but the water-based products are, of course, easier to handle. I think you’ll get the best results by applying it with a garden-type pump sprayer.

     Dear Ken: Our house was built in the 50’s and has what I think are asbestos floor tiles. I don’t want to cover them with carpet, so what should I do? Deb

     I would leave them alone. I’ll bet they’re sealed with dozens of layers of floor wax by now. So, if they’re not cracked or broken, keep sealing them from time to time with a good brand of wax (which I admit is getting harder and harder to find at the grocery store, so you may need to visit a janitorial supply company). Asbestos products are best left alone, because it’s now known that you can create a bigger problem and more contamination by removing them.

     Dear Ken: We moved into a new home and can’t seem to get the windows clean.  They’re spotted with paint and stain. We’ve tried everything—Goof Off, Windex, vinegar for instance.  What else can we try? Jeannie

     Goof Off—or even mineral spirits--combined with a single-edged razor blade in a scraper are invincible for virtually all paint products. What I’m afraid of is that you may have an etching problem. Stucco and concrete products are pretty corrosive and actually pit the surface. And that can sometimes look like ordinary overspray. Use a jeweler’s loupe or a magnifying glass to check it out. If etching has taken place, you’ll have to replace the glass.