October 3,2020
Dear Ken: How do you unclog the downspouts? They are full of leaves and twigs and other gunk. Mark
The easiest solution is a plain old garden hose. Point it into the downspout opening in the gutter and blast away. Sometimes the clog won’t budge, in which case you may need to insert a plumber’s “snake”—a long springy wire designed for drain cleaning--into the hole. Use a smaller one designed for a bathroom sink. Twist away for a while, interspersing with spurts of water from the hose, and you should be able to bust it loose.
Remember that around here gutters need to be cleaned twice a year—in the spring and fall. If yours is a heavily treed yard, you might consider one of the aluminum deflector gutter systems that direct leaves, twigs and pine needles over board while still allowing the water to cascade into the gutter. Avoid so-called gutter screens--a wire mesh system that covers each gutter. In theory, they should allow water in and keep leaves out, but in practice their little holes actually capture and retain leaves and needles and clog up in no time.
Dear Ken: Tell me about aluminum wiring issues? Doug
During the Vietnam War--when copper prices went through the roof--many electricians switched to the then-cheaper aluminum cabling. What we didn't know in those days was that the stuff may arc at plug/switch connections and (in thankfully very few cases) can cause a fire. Aluminum is OK in big circuits, like your range or dryer, but if you have it in your branch lighting circuits (15 & 20 amps), call in an electrician to help. How can you tell? If your home was built between (roughly) 1965 and 1975, pull the cover off your circuit box and look for the smaller, single-strand, gray conductors.
If you have this wiring, you need to get it checked and repaired by a licensed electrician right away. The repair is pretty simple; the electrician will attach small “pigtails” of copper wire to the ends of the aluminum conductors—and then attach the copper directly to the outlets and switches. When the work is done, have the company give you a letter stating that the repairs were completed, and that the wiring is now safe.
Dear Ken: My toilet is acting up. It doesn’t always flush everything away. And sometimes we have to plunger it. James
I’m sure you have a low volume toilet--either 1.6 gallons or 1.28 gallons per flush. Sometimes that’s just not enough. Try holding the handle down for ten seconds or so each time to get all the stored water down into the bowl. And make sure that the water is at the recommend level. If not you can adjust the set screw on the fill valve.
These government-mandated low flow toilets can sometimes be, shall we say, modified by raising the overflow tube with a piece of plastic or rubber pipe, or by discarding the float attached to the chain.
You can also grind out the holes up under the rim with an Allen wrench. That will accelerate the siphoning action of the toilet.
Dear Ken: My ceiling fan has a remote control, and it often comes on by itself after we’ve tried to turn it off. What’s going on? Ivy
First, remove the batteries and then turn off the circuit breaker to the fan for about five minutes. After you restore the power, you may be OK. If this continues, it may indicate that you and a neighbor are competing on the same frequency. You turn your fan off, so theirs comes on, so they turn theirs off and yours comes on, etc.
There should be some tiny toggles—called DIP switches—in both the remote and the fan which you can set to a different combination and so avoid the conflict. Another good resource, should the problem continue, is the web site of the manufacturer. There should be an “FAQ” section plus a link to e-mail them directly.
Dear Ken: We have a whole house fan and are wondering if we should install turbine type vents to let more air out. Bonnie
With a whole house fan, more is better. That is, you need lots of vent openings to the outside world to exhaust the huge amounts of air pushed through by the fan. Most newer homes don’t have nearly enough attic ventilation. You’ll find the recommended number and size of the attic openings in the installation instructions for the fan, and I’ll bet you need more.
Yes, turbines will work, but my favorite style is the vertical gable vent on the side of the house (at the ends of the attic). Why? It’s much less vulnerable to leaking and blown-in snow issues in the winter. Also, they are easier to get to and cover during cold weather. Apply a furnace filters over the opening in the fall to keep out the snow and preserve solar gain, but don’t forget to remove them each spring.
Dear Ken: I have silverfish in my house. How can I get rid of them? Steve
These are little wingless insects that some folks confuse with centipedes. They are harmless (entomologists always say that about bugs that freak us out!), but their presence indicates that you have some work to do. They love dark wet crevices and also need a food source, which can almost anything: dead insects, glue, paste, paper, shampoo residue, pet food, crumbs—you name it. There are homeowner approved sprays which work well; look for them at the garden center. Also, boric acid powder or diatomaceous earth sprinkled in their haunts will zap them. But the most effective treatment is to remove moisture sources and vacuum behind stoves, in the corners and along the baseboards and behind the furniture on a regular basis.
CSU has a web site you can check out: wci.colostate.edu
