Pet Door
Dear Ken: I’m worried about my TV. I have a gas fireplace under it, and it gets extremely hot. I’m afraid it’s going to cook it. What can I do? Jane
Most builders will fashion some drywall “step-outs” above the firebox to deflect hot air away from the front of the fireplace and out into the room. I hope that’s the case with you. As long as there is plenty of air circulation behind the TV, I think you’re fine.
But here’s an idea that has a double benefit. Have a fireplace company install a fan under the back of the firebox. It will cool everything down—and you’ll also get an added cost benefit. The fan makes the gas log fireplace more efficient by keeping the warm air in the house, instead of letting it run out the chimney.
Speaking of fireplaces:
Dear Ken: I’m looking for one of those curved manifold pipe systems that you stick into the fireplace behind the grate. Where should I check for them? Brad
You can find various versions of these online. They are a little pricey because most of them come with a built-in blower system. These came to the fore in the 70’s as we scrambled around GFCI trying to get more energy on the cheap. But I’m not fond of this scheme. The theory was fine: The wood fire heats up the pipes, which then convects hot air back into the room. The trouble is, huge amounts of interior heated air are sucked up and out of the chimney as the fire burns—plus the incoming air from the tubes can also drag smoke into the room along with the heat.
A better idea is to use a natural gas-powered insert that will circulate room air around the hot enclosure while isolating the chimney gases from your indoor environment. Some of these can be fitted with a circulating fan that make them even a more efficient source of heat for multiple rooms.
Dear Ken: I have a mess. I’m trying to get wallpaper off the bathroom wall. It evidently was glued directly on the sheet rock, and when I pull it off, the drywall gets fuzzy. What do I do know? Pam
If the fuzz is minimal, you may be able to get it to lie down with a coat or two of primer, like KILZ. Otherwise, apply a thin coat of drywall “mud” with a wide blade putty knife or trowel. Then prime. If your goal here was to paint this wall, you may be disappointed. The paint topcoat may raise that fuzzy grain on the wall again. That’s why I usually say that once a room is wallpapered, it’s usually best to stick with that system.
If you’re not a traditional wallpaper fan, don’t worry. The days of frou-frou, flowery patterns, thankfully, are gone. Now there are textured finishes and faux designs that will unobtrusively blend in with any décor.
Dear Ken: We are going to put in a pet door for our cats. But how can we keep out other critters? Beth
I would put in two cat doors—one into the garage and one from it to the house. Wild animals might check out the garage but may be reluctant to proceed through the next door. My experience has shown me that the real worry here is other domesticated cats
They tend to follow their new-found friends almost anywhere. Of course, you’ll want to use that slide-in barrier at night to keep your felines in as well as others out.
But remember, if you do cut a hole in your house/garage wall, you’ll necessarily be violating the so-called ”firewall” requirements of the building code. There is extra-thick drywall on the garage side that helps keep fire at bay until the firefighters arrive. Generally, “no holes allowed” is the rule here.
Dear Ken: I have a bid for about $4300 for a new 93 % furnace. They want another $500 to go to a 95. Is it worth it? Danny
I don’t think so. If you assume a $150 natural gas bill for 6 months a year, it would take you over 20 years to recover the $500, and only then would you be saving money. I do applaud you, however, for spending about $1000 more to go from the basic 80% furnace (the minimum allowed now) to the 93. That payback will only take about 8 years, but even that recovery time will shorten up as fossil fuel prices continue to escalate.
Dear Ken: I have a sewer gas odor in the basement only in the evenings, in cooler weather and on windy days. Can you help? Fran
First, make sure all the drains are OK and are sealed. Run water into them once a week—or pour 1-1/2 pints of mineral oil in as a more or less permanent seal. This would include the floor drain, shower or tub and the lavatory. Also, check the washing machine. Older plumbing pipes can be overwhelmed by the high-flow-rate output from new washing machines; the trap evacuates, letting in sewer gas. To check this, temporarily seal the washer hose with duct tape as it enters the drain.
You can also check on the roof. Sometimes those vent pipes aren’t high enough to let the wind carry away the fumes. They can also get plugged with dried waste products, so have a sewer cleaning company take a look. You didn’t say whether or not you have a septic system. They are more likely to produce odor problems than city sewers. You can buy odor filter caps for the vent pipes online.
