September 19, 2020

     Dear Ken: The house is always hotter than we like no matter how we ventilate it. Will the whole house fans you always talk about work even with a cathedral ceiling? Lance

     Sort of. You really need a flat ceiling and a “normal” attic—at least in part of the house--for the whole house fan installation itself.

     The attic space between the roof and a cathedral ceiling is minimal, so it’s difficult to get enough air flow from the fan up there. First make sure there is “communication” between the two attics. Then you’ll need more openings—like several rotating turbine- type vents--from the cathedral attic to the outside, so that as much air as possible finds its way through that constricted space . 

     Dear Ken: When water gets on the basement floor from the humidifier or air conditioner, we see a puffy white material we have to clean up. Is this a concern? Thomas

     Probably not. These are dissolved salts in the underlying soil and the concrete itself, which rise to the surface of damp concrete. When the water evaporates, the remaining crystals accumulate in little puffy clumps. It’s usually benign, but it can sometimes indicate that there is water under the house. If you see a similar white line along the bottom of the foundation wall, you should check for outside moisture sources—like downspouts which dump too close, or soil which slopes into the house rather than away. These crystals are easy to get rid of; simply scrub with a mixture of warm water and vinegar.

     Dear Ken: We have older cedar siding. Two painters have recommend actual paint. What do you think? Jeanie

     I prefer a semi-transparent stain. It will add a little color to the finish, while allowing that unique cedar wood grain to show through. These come in two varieties: oil or water-based. I prefer the former, because it soaks in, carrying the preserving chemicals deep into the boards, seasoning them. An ordinary oil-based deck stain is OK, but there are better formulations made exclusively for siding, which are a better choice. Finally, avoid so-called water sealer products. They contain wax-like chemicals which are no match for our high elevation, Rocky Mountain sunshine.

     Dear Ken: I’m refinishing the bathroom. Do I have to remove all the old 4” x 4” tile first? Or is there a product I can put right over it? Pete

     You really have to pull off the old tile. It’s not as bad as it sounds. The mastic underneath will have hardened by now, so each tile will essentially pop off the wall.   You’ll then be left with a fairly rough surface, which you’ll need to smooth out. Use mineral spirits and a putty knife to remove the old glue. Try not to sand the surface any more than you have to—since that will compromise the drywall surface, and you’ll then have to replace it.

     If it’s still rough and stippled after this treatment, you’ll need to cover it with new cement board.

     Dear Ken: I think there is an odor coming from that overflow hole in the lavatory. Do you think that is it? How can I eliminate it? Cherrie

     That slot can accumulate material inside that can indeed stink up the place—not so much from the part you can see, but from its connection underneath in the drain. Take an old turkey buster and flush the overflow with a strong hot water/detergent mixture.

     You should also attend to the drain side. Remove the stopper and rinse off all the gunk. Disconnect the trap underneath the sink to clean it. Finally, take an old rag twisted on to a long beefy screwdriver and run it up and it up and down inside the drain a few times. 

     You may find that the stopper is captured in the drain hole and so can’t be pulled up and out. It can be modified so you can remove it regularly for cleaning. Here’s how.  Place an old towel under the pipes in the vanity cabinet. Then unscrew the nut holding the stopper push-up rod. That will release the stopper itself; you’ll see a little plastic tab on its bottom that you can break off with pliers. Now you’ll be able to lift it up and out at will to de-gunk it, and so your sink will stay cleaner and sweeter.

     Dear Ken: Do those solar attic fans cool the attic enough to justify the cost? Rick

     They are pretty pricey, but that can be offset by the high cost of installing a conventional fan with its required electrical connection. The good news is that solar fans can be installed from on top, so no one is going to be crawling through your attic squashing down the insulation.

     Another alternative at a more moderate price are those turbine vents I mentioned above. They can also be installed from on top. But they are a little tricky to flash--so it would be a good idea to involve a professional roofer in this if you want to avoid leaks into the attic.

     Dear Ken: My driveway is rusty. I spilled some kind of iron product on it that’s left a stain. Can you help me get it off? Suzanne

     If you were to wait long enough, the sun would eventually bleach it out. But, in the meantime, try scrubbing it with a stiff bristled brush dipped in white vinegar or CLR.  That will fade it out more quickly. Power washing is also quit effective. But try the scrubbing first, and don’t overdo the power wash; it can gouge the concrete surface.